68 codes · 2 eras · 0 invented

Dacor error codes, and which era yours belongs to.

The same characters mean different things on different Dacor appliances. F2 is a runaway heat condition on a Classic ERC oven, a communication problem on an ER-series range, and a touch-controller failure on a Modernist induction cooktop. Every page here names the appliance and the era before it gives a meaning.

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68 documented codes
41 from before 2016
27 from the current platform
23 circulating codes refused

Jump to a table

By appliance and era

Type what the panel shows and the index will find it. If nothing matches, check the model first — the same string belongs to more than one table on this make.

Five of this make's ten appliances publish no codes at all. If yours is one of them, the symptom pages are the honest place to start.

The thing that makes this make different

Two eras, and not one code string in common

Before September 2016, Dacor built its own control boards and its own problem tables: F0 to F8 on the Classic ERC ovens and ranges, F1 to F95 on the ER-series ranges, F-1 to F-9 on the EDW and IDW dishwashers. After it, the machines run the Samsung platform and report C-## on ovens and ranges and #C strings on dishwashers. Which era an appliance is from decides the code table, the control board and the part number.

No code showing? Start here

A service manual lying open on a bench mat under a work light, its pages a grid of rows too small to read.

Why that matters more than it sounds

The same string, three different meanings

F1 is a bake-and-broil watchdog failure on a Classic ERC oven, a general internal problem on an ER-series range, and an EEPROM communication failure on a Modernist induction cooktop. A table that gives one meaning without naming the appliance and the era is guessing, and a search that returns three contradictory answers is the reason people give up and call somebody who also guesses.

No code showing? Start here

Two control boards of different ages lying side by side on a bench mat, their layouts plainly unalike.

Before you look anything up

Establish the era first

How to tell

The model and serial on the rating plate settle it outright.
Roughly when the kitchen was fitted, if the plate is unreachable.
An F-number with a dash — F-4 — is the legacy dishwasher platform.

Then read the display exactly

Including the dash, the letter case and any leading C.
A code that appears and clears is as useful as one that stays.
Photograph it rather than remembering it — a second press can clear it.

No code showing?

Start from the problem instead

5 of this make's ten appliances publish no codes at all, and those problems are written out in words.

It is running, the light works, and the food is warm
Refrigerator not cooling

The cabinet is clearly alive and the food is clearly not cold. Two pieces of evidence settle most of what follows and neither needs tools. The first is a thermometer in each compartment, read twice an hour apart. The second is which cabinet you have: on a French door one sealed system serves both compartments, so a single warm side is an airflow problem; on a column pair there are two independent systems and the cold cabinet beside the warm one is evidence rather than a symptom. This make publishes no error code for any of it, which is why the readings matter more here than on other badges.
- Freezer cold and fresh food warm means airflow, not refrigerant
- There is no code to read — the app's named alarms are all the appliance will say
- Check the grille before anything else: a captured column has one way to breathe
What it usually means
The freezer is perfect and the fresh food is not, or the reverse
One side cold, the other warm

The most diagnostic complaint on refrigeration, because half the appliance is telling you it is healthy. On a French-door cabinet one sealed system serves both compartments and air is moved between them, so one warm side almost always means the air path — a fan, a damper, a duct, a defrost cycle that has stopped finishing. On a column pair it means something quite different: two cabinets with a system each, and one of them has a problem the other does not share. Establishing which shape is in the kitchen is the first question and it changes everything after it.
- Half the cabinet working is evidence, and it halves the diagnosis
- French door: one system, so this is airflow. Columns: two systems, so it is local
- Ice building at the back wall points at defrost rather than at the fan
What it usually means

No ice, slow ice, or cubes that come out hollow
Ice maker has stopped

Ice is a module inside a cabinet on this make rather than an appliance of its own, and the freezer columns carry two of them. That second module is the most useful diagnostic tool in the kitchen: both stopped points upstream at the water supply, the inlet valve or the fill tube, while one stopped and one working points squarely at the module itself. Hollow or slow cubes are a third case again, and in South Florida they usually mean a valve that scale has narrowed rather than a mechanism that has failed.
- Two modules on the freezer columns — which one stopped is half the answer
- Both stopped is water. One stopped is that module
- Hollow cubes are fill volume, and in this water that is usually scale
What it usually means
A puddle in front of the joinery, or damp at the base
Water under a built-in cabinet

Water under built-in refrigeration is worse than water under a freestanding cabinet because it has somewhere to go: under the joinery, into the base of the cabinet beside it, and in a condominium sometimes into the ceiling below. There are only four likely sources — a blocked defrost drain, a split or loose supply line, the ice module's fill path, or a door that no longer seals in a humid kitchen — and they are told apart by where the water starts. The first action is not diagnosis. It is closing the supply valve.
- Turn the water off at the valve first — the diagnosis can wait, the joinery cannot
- Four likely sources, separated by where the water appears rather than by guesswork
- Under cabinetry the consequential damage is usually larger than the problem causing it
What it usually means
Soft ice cream, frost on the packets, and a cabinet that never rests
Freezer column running warm

Every freezer this make builds is a column, and there is no second compartment to carry the load while a part is ordered — so this complaint is treated as urgent in a way the same problem on a French-door cabinet would not be. Before anything is opened, two free things are worth ruling out, and between them they account for a large share of these calls: a load pushed past the internal vents so air cannot circulate, and a base grille covered after a floor was laid or a kick panel refitted.
- No second compartment — this one empties the cabinet if it is left
- Overloaded drawers and a covered grille imitate a failing sealed system
- Power Freeze running hard is a mode, not a problem
What it usually means
One zone has drifted and the others are holding
Wine column zone too warm

A cabinet specified to hold within about a third of a degree is judged against that number, and a two-degree drift that would be unremarkable in a refrigerator is a problem here. The question that decides everything is how many zones are wrong. One adrift while the others hold is the division of airflow — that zone's sensor or damper — and stays a small repair. All three drifting together moves the diagnosis to the system feeding them. There is no code to read on this cabinet; the measurement is the diagnosis.
- One zone wrong is local. Three zones wrong is the system
- Two degrees is a problem on a cabinet specified to a third of one
- No code exists — a 156-page manual with no code table in it
What it usually means
The outer pane is cold and the glass is wet
Condensation on the wine column glass

The door of a wine column is equipment in itself: argon-filled triple glazing designed to keep heat and ultraviolet light out of the cabinet. Its outer pane should sit near room temperature even in a Miami August. When that pane is cold to the touch and running with condensation, the cavity has lost its fill or the door is no longer sealing — and either way the cabinet is now fighting the room. It will lose slowly, expensively and out of sight, which is why this is worth a call earlier than it feels like it deserves.
- Cold outer glass is a problem, not humidity
- The cabinet is now fighting the kitchen, and the compressor pays for it
- Check the racks before the door: one sitting proud holds it open
What it usually means
Lights work, buttons respond, and nothing moves
Range hood fan will not start

A hood that lights up and will not extract is one of the few appliances in this kitchen with no code to give you — the maker's own manual troubleshoots in plain English because the control panel has no display to show a string on. That is worth saying plainly, because several sites publish tables of codes for these hoods that the manufacturer's own document contradicts. What decides this call is which shape of hood is over the range: a canopy, a chimney, or a liner hidden inside somebody's millwork.
- There is no error code — the maker's own manual uses plain English, and so do we
- Lights working narrows it: the supply reaches the hood
- Which shape of hood it is decides how the visit is done
What it usually means
The fan sounds normal and the smoke stays
Hood runs but the kitchen does not clear

A hood can be in perfect working order and still fail to clear a kitchen, which is why this complaint is diagnosed from the outlet backwards rather than from the appliance forwards. Filters block gradually enough that nobody can name the day it got bad. Beyond them, in South Florida buildings, the duct run is often long and shared, and a run that has come apart above the ceiling or a backdraught damper stuck shut will leave a healthy blower pushing against nothing at all.
- Filters first — they block slowly enough that nobody notices
- Then the duct: long shared runs are ordinary in buildings here
- A healthy fan pushing into a blocked run sounds completely normal
What it usually means
The light is on, the plate turns, and the food is cold
Microwave runs but does not heat

This is the one symptom on a microwave where we ask people to stop using the appliance until it has been seen. A machine that lights, turns and counts down while producing no heat has a problem on its high-voltage side, and that is not a part of an appliance to investigate with a screwdriver and a video: the capacitor in it can hold a lethal charge long after the plug is out. It is a routine repair for somebody equipped for it. There is no code to read — this make's microwaves display a single generic word and nothing more specific.
- Stop using it. The high-voltage side is not a do-it-yourself repair
- There is no code table for this appliance in either era — just the word ERROR
- Built-in and drawer machines are worth repairing; a countertop one usually is not
What it usually means
It stops partway, or refuses to move at all
Microwave drawer will not open

A drawer microwave is a motorized mechanism as well as an oven, and the mechanism is what usually fails. A drawer that stops partway, will not open, or opens and immediately closes is a drive, a rail or an obstruction — and while that is unresolved the oven will refuse to heat, because the interlock chain is not satisfied. That refusal reads as a dead appliance and is in fact the machine being careful. It is a mechanical repair, it is common, and it very rarely means the microwave itself is finished.
- The mechanism fails far more often than the oven does
- A drawer that will not close leaves an oven that will not run — by design
- Mechanical repair, ordinary parts, and not the end of the appliance
What it usually means
Everything is browner at the back, or nothing browns at all
Oven bakes unevenly or at the wrong temperature

An oven can be thirty degrees out and pass every self-test it is capable of, because it believes its own sensor. That is why this complaint is diagnosed with an independent probe and a logged preheat rather than by opinion or by an oven thermometer left on a shelf. On this make there is a second question first: which era the appliance is from. An older cavity may report a sensor problem through a code table that no longer exists on the current machines, and a newer one reports something else entirely.
- An oven thirty degrees out passes its own self-test
- Probe at rack height and a logged preheat — not a thermometer on a shelf
- Sitting steadily wrong and swinging widely are different problems
What it usually means
Sparking at the burner and no flame
Burner clicks but will not light

In this climate the two ordinary causes are salt air on the igniter and a cap that went back slightly wrong after a clean — which is why so many of these calls date from the week the hob was scrubbed. The professional burners on the rangetops complicate it pleasantly: they are built to relight themselves after a draft or a boil-over, so a burner that keeps going out may be that system rather than the burner. Neither is a code problem; the rangetops have no display to show one on.
- Most of these begin the week the hob was deep-cleaned
- Salt air and humidity are what actually kill igniters here
- One burner or all of them is the question that splits the diagnosis
What it usually means
It works for a few minutes at high power and stops
Induction zone cuts out during cooking

The most misread problem on an induction surface, because it looks like a zone dying and is usually a zone defending itself. The drive electronics under the glass shed a great deal of heat, and they rely on airflow through the cabinet beneath. Pack that space, add insulation during a renovation, or store a stack of trays against the underside, and the cooktop will run beautifully for five minutes at high power and then step back. Establishing that before anybody quotes for parts is the whole of this page.
- Cutting out after minutes at high power is usually protection, not failure
- The cause is under the worktop far more often than in the appliance
- Pan compatibility is a magnet test, and no repair changes it
What it usually means
A film that will not wash off, and it is getting worse
Glassware coming out cloudy

Cloudy glass is two quite different problems wearing the same appearance. One is deposit — hard-water scale sitting on the surface, which comes off with an acid rinse and comes back unless the water is treated. The other is etching, which is permanent damage to the glass itself and cannot be reversed by anything. Telling them apart takes a few minutes at the sink and decides whether this is a repair, a maintenance visit or a conversation about the glassware. This make helps: the dishwasher has a softener built into it.
- Deposit washes off. Etching does not — and the test takes five minutes
- This machine has its own water softener, and it is the usual answer
- A slow, even decline across everything points at the softener rather than a part
What it usually means
Plastics soaked, glass fine, and a puddle on the upturned cups
Dishes coming out wet

Half of these calls are answered by an explanation rather than a repair, and we would rather give it than take the visit. These machines dry without an element roasting the load: they use residual heat and a door that releases itself at the end of the cycle. That leaves plastics damp and glass dry, and it is the design rather than a defect. What is a genuine problem is water still standing on upturned crockery, warm cloudy glass, or a door that never opens at the end.
- Damp plastics beside dry glass is the design, not a problem
- The door opening itself at the end of the cycle is AutoRelease working
- Pooled water on upturned items is the symptom that is real
What it usually means
Both at once, and nothing on the machine has been changed
Coffee has gone bitter and weak

Bitter and weak together is the classic complaint on a built-in coffee system, and it is almost never the beans or the settings. Burrs wear, the grind drifts coarse, and coarse grind under-extracts — which tastes weak. Meanwhile scale and old coffee oils in the brew group add the bitterness. Two causes, one symptom, and both are maintenance rather than failure. This appliance writes sentences rather than codes, so it will often have been asking for a clean for some time before anybody calls.
- Bitter and weak together is grind and group, not beans or settings
- The machine has probably been asking for a clean — read what the display says
- Discontinued platform: the parts answer comes before the labor
What it usually means
It shows offline, or never finishes pairing
The app will not connect to the appliance

Worth a page of its own because it is the complaint most likely to be sold as an appliance repair when it is nothing of the sort. The current generation reports to an app, and when the link works it genuinely shortens a diagnosis — a caller who can read what the app says saves the first part of a visit. When it does not work, the appliance is almost always fine, and the problem belongs to a router, a network band or an account. We will say so, and we will not charge repair money for it.
- An appliance off the network is not a broken appliance
- Most of these are the 2.4 GHz band, the router or the account — not the machine
- Only the 2016-and-later machines connect at all
What it usually means
A click, a buzz or a rattle that was not there last month
Refrigeration making a new noise

Refrigeration is never silent, and the useful question is not whether it makes a noise but whether the noise is new. Built-in cabinets are quieter than freestanding ones, which means a change is noticed sooner and worries people more. Most new noises come from one of four places — the evaporator fan, the condenser fan, the compressor mounts, or something touching the cabinet — and three of those four are cheap. What matters is catching a fan before ice or a dry bearing takes the cooling with it.
- A new noise is worth a call; a familiar one usually is not
- Noise that stops when the door opens is the evaporator fan
- Panel-ready cabinets amplify contact noise through the joinery
What it usually means
Ice on the walls, on the packets, and around the drawers
Frost building up inside the freezer column

Frost inside a frost-free cabinet means moisture is getting in, or the defrost cycle is no longer clearing what condenses. Both are ordinary, and which one it is can usually be told by where the ice forms: around the door and at the top means air is leaking in, while ice at the back wall and under the drawers means the defrost is not finishing. In a column the ice starts low and surfaces late, so by the time it is visible it has been building for weeks.
- Where the ice forms tells you which problem it is
- Around the door is air getting in; at the back wall is defrost
- In a column the build-up starts low and shows late
What it usually means
The cabinet insists the door is open and it plainly is not
Door alarm chiming with the door shut

One of the four named alarms these cabinets have — there is no code behind it, just the chime and the app saying Door Open. When it sounds with the door visibly closed, the appliance is not confused: either the door is genuinely not sealing home, or the switch that reports its position has failed. The first is far more likely and often free to correct, and on a panel-ready door it is usually a hinge that has settled under the weight of a cabinet front.
- No code behind it — Door Open is one of only four named alarms on these cabinets
- A door that looks closed can still be a few millimeters off the seal
- Panel weight settles hinges, and the switch is the last suspect
What it usually means
One lamp dark, or the whole strip
Hood lights not working

The smallest hood problem and the most common call. LED modules in these hoods fail one at a time, so a single dark lamp is a module or its driver rather than a hood at the end of its life. A whole strip dark points at the driver or the supply instead. There is no code to read — the maker's own manual troubleshoots hood lighting in plain English, because the control panel has no display. A photograph of the hood from below usually decides what goes on the van.
- One dark lamp is a module; all dark is the driver or the supply
- Dimming before failure points at the driver, not the lamps
- A photo from below is usually enough to bring the right part
What it usually means
The fan starts with nobody at the controls
Hood switching itself on

Alarming the first time and usually correct behavior. These hoods have an automatic overheat response: when the temperature under the canopy climbs past a threshold — a heavy sear, a long roast, a burner left high — the hood starts itself to protect the appliance and the cabinetry above it. That is the design working. What is a genuine problem is a hood that starts with a cold range, or one that starts and will not stop, and those point at the sensor or the control rather than at the kitchen.
- Starting during heavy cooking is the overheat protection, by design
- Starting with a cold range is a sensor or a control problem
- A hood that will not switch off is worth a call rather than a breaker
What it usually means
Arcing, a flash, or a burning smell during a cycle
Sparking inside the microwave

Stop the cycle and stop using the appliance. Sparking inside a microwave has a small number of causes and one of them — a damaged waveguide cover — will get worse quickly and can damage the magnetron, which is the expensive part. The others are usually harmless once found: metal in the cavity, a rack touching a wall, or food debris carbonized onto the cover. There is no code for this and no code table exists for these microwaves at all, so what the owner saw is the whole of the evidence.
- Stop the cycle and stop using it until it has been looked at
- A damaged waveguide cover gets worse fast and takes the magnetron with it
- Metal, a touching rack, or carbonized debris are the harmless causes
What it usually means
It sears beautifully and cannot be turned down
Burner will not stay at a simmer

Losing the bottom of a burner's range is a specific and satisfying problem, because the cause is usually visible and the fix lasts. These are sealed brass burners built to run from a hard sear down to a genuine simmer, and when the low end goes it is nearly always a partly blocked port, a cap seated a fraction wrong after cleaning, or the simmer valve itself. It is also the clearest example of a problem that arrives the week the hob was scrubbed and gets blamed on the appliance.
- Losing the low end is usually ports or a cap, not the burner
- It very often dates from the week the hob was deep-cleaned
- The pro brass burners are built to simmer — this is a problem, not a limitation
What it usually means

All 25 conditions

What is not on this list

23 codes that circulate and are not real

FAN-FAIL and NO-LIGHT for the hoods. TEMP-HI and COMP-ERR for the wine column. 5E, 21E, 22E and 41E for the refrigeration. F0 and F1 for the microwaves, copied word for word from this make’s own wall-oven table. Every one of them appears on appliance sites as a Dacor code, and not one has a manufacturer document behind it — several are directly contradicted by Dacor’s own manuals, which document the same symptoms in plain English.

Call (305) 363-6067 Describe it in the form

Before you book

The questions this page is asked

My code is not on this list.

Then either it belongs to an appliance this make publishes nothing for — in which case the symptom pages are the honest place to start — or it is one of the strings we refuse to publish because no manufacturer document supports it. Tell us what it says and we will say plainly which of those it is.

Why does the same code mean two things?

Because two entirely different engineering teams built these appliances twenty years apart, and both reached for the same characters. Dacor's own pre-2016 boards used F-numbers; the Samsung platform that replaced them uses C-## and #C strings and, on the induction cooktops, a short F-series of its own. The overlap is a coincidence of notation, not a shared meaning.

Can I clear a code and carry on?

It depends entirely which one. A stuck-key code or a pairing prompt clears and means nothing. A high-temperature code, a leak-detection code or a locked door on a hot cavity should not be cleared and re-run — in those cases the appliance stopping itself is the good news, and each page says which kind you are holding.

In more detail

Where these came from, and what is missing

Seven primary documents

Dacor’s own Tec-Line problem sheet, the ER-series technical manual, the Modernist wall oven, Pro range, induction cooktop and dishwasher manuals, the EDW/IDW service manual and the CM24 coffee manual. Every code on this site traces to one of them.

5 appliances that publish nothing

Refrigeration, freezer, wine, hood and microwave. Their manuals contain named alarms or plain-English troubleshooting and no code table at all. We say so rather than borrowing a table from a sister appliance or from the parent company.

What we would not claim

Where a source could not be found, or where a collection’s control generation could not be dated, this site says so. That is the whole difference between a research pass and a page assembled from search results.

Not sure which of these it is?

Describe what the appliance is doing and tell us roughly how old the kitchen is, and we will tell you which page you are on. If a diagnostic is the right next step it is from $95, credited toward the repair.

Schedule a visit Call (305) 363-6067

This article is based on:

Official manufacturer documentation
Internal repair procedures
Technician repair history
Company quality standards

Dacor error codes, and which era yours belongs to.

How to tell

Then read the display exactly

Refrigerator not cooling

One side cold, the other warm

Ice maker has stopped

Water under a built-in cabinet

Freezer column running warm

Wine column zone too warm

Condensation on the wine column glass

Range hood fan will not start

Hood runs but the kitchen does not clear

Microwave runs but does not heat

Microwave drawer will not open

Oven bakes unevenly or at the wrong temperature

Burner clicks but will not light

Induction zone cuts out during cooking

Glassware coming out cloudy

Dishes coming out wet

Coffee has gone bitter and weak

The app will not connect to the appliance

Refrigeration making a new noise

Frost building up inside the freezer column

Door alarm chiming with the door shut

Hood lights not working

Hood switching itself on

Sparking inside the microwave

Burner will not stay at a simmer