What a Dacor does when it goes wrong, and what it will not tell you.

Refrigerator not cooling

The cabinet is clearly alive and the food is clearly not cold. Two pieces of evidence settle most of what follows and neither needs tools. The first is a thermometer in each compartment, read twice an hour apart. The second is which cabinet you have: on a French door one sealed system serves both compartments, so a single warm side is an airflow problem; on a column pair there are two independent systems and the cold cabinet beside the warm one is evidence rather than a symptom. This make publishes no error code for any of it, which is why the readings matter more here than on other badges.

• Freezer cold and fresh food warm means airflow, not refrigerant
• There is no code to read — the app's named alarms are all the appliance will say
• Check the grille before anything else: a captured column has one way to breathe

One side cold, the other warm

The most diagnostic complaint on refrigeration, because half the appliance is telling you it is healthy. On a French-door cabinet one sealed system serves both compartments and air is moved between them, so one warm side almost always means the air path — a fan, a damper, a duct, a defrost cycle that has stopped finishing. On a column pair it means something quite different: two cabinets with a system each, and one of them has a problem the other does not share. Establishing which shape is in the kitchen is the first question and it changes everything after it.

• Half the cabinet working is evidence, and it halves the diagnosis
• French door: one system, so this is airflow. Columns: two systems, so it is local
• Ice building at the back wall points at defrost rather than at the fan

Ice maker has stopped

Ice is a module inside a cabinet on this make rather than an appliance of its own, and the freezer columns carry two of them. That second module is the most useful diagnostic tool in the kitchen: both stopped points upstream at the water supply, the inlet valve or the fill tube, while one stopped and one working points squarely at the module itself. Hollow or slow cubes are a third case again, and in South Florida they usually mean a valve that scale has narrowed rather than a mechanism that has failed.

• Two modules on the freezer columns — which one stopped is half the answer
• Both stopped is water. One stopped is that module
• Hollow cubes are fill volume, and in this water that is usually scale

Water under a built-in cabinet

Water under built-in refrigeration is worse than water under a freestanding cabinet because it has somewhere to go: under the joinery, into the base of the cabinet beside it, and in a condominium sometimes into the ceiling below. There are only four likely sources — a blocked defrost drain, a split or loose supply line, the ice module's fill path, or a door that no longer seals in a humid kitchen — and they are told apart by where the water starts. The first action is not diagnosis. It is closing the supply valve.

• Turn the water off at the valve first — the diagnosis can wait, the joinery cannot
• Four likely sources, separated by where the water appears rather than by guesswork
• Under cabinetry the consequential damage is usually larger than the problem causing it

Freezer column running warm

Every freezer this make builds is a column, and there is no second compartment to carry the load while a part is ordered — so this complaint is treated as urgent in a way the same problem on a French-door cabinet would not be. Before anything is opened, two free things are worth ruling out, and between them they account for a large share of these calls: a load pushed past the internal vents so air cannot circulate, and a base grille covered after a floor was laid or a kick panel refitted.

• No second compartment — this one empties the cabinet if it is left
• Overloaded drawers and a covered grille imitate a failing sealed system
• Power Freeze running hard is a mode, not a problem

Wine column zone too warm

A cabinet specified to hold within about a third of a degree is judged against that number, and a two-degree drift that would be unremarkable in a refrigerator is a problem here. The question that decides everything is how many zones are wrong. One adrift while the others hold is the division of airflow — that zone's sensor or damper — and stays a small repair. All three drifting together moves the diagnosis to the system feeding them. There is no code to read on this cabinet; the measurement is the diagnosis.

• One zone wrong is local. Three zones wrong is the system
• Two degrees is a problem on a cabinet specified to a third of one
• No code exists — a 156-page manual with no code table in it

Condensation on the wine column glass

The door of a wine column is equipment in itself: argon-filled triple glazing designed to keep heat and ultraviolet light out of the cabinet. Its outer pane should sit near room temperature even in a Miami August. When that pane is cold to the touch and running with condensation, the cavity has lost its fill or the door is no longer sealing — and either way the cabinet is now fighting the room. It will lose slowly, expensively and out of sight, which is why this is worth a call earlier than it feels like it deserves.

• Cold outer glass is a problem, not humidity
• The cabinet is now fighting the kitchen, and the compressor pays for it
• Check the racks before the door: one sitting proud holds it open

Range hood fan will not start

A hood that lights up and will not extract is one of the few appliances in this kitchen with no code to give you — the maker's own manual troubleshoots in plain English because the control panel has no display to show a string on. That is worth saying plainly, because several sites publish tables of codes for these hoods that the manufacturer's own document contradicts. What decides this call is which shape of hood is over the range: a canopy, a chimney, or a liner hidden inside somebody's millwork.

• There is no error code — the maker's own manual uses plain English, and so do we
• Lights working narrows it: the supply reaches the hood
• Which shape of hood it is decides how the visit is done

Hood runs but the kitchen does not clear

A hood can be in perfect working order and still fail to clear a kitchen, which is why this complaint is diagnosed from the outlet backwards rather than from the appliance forwards. Filters block gradually enough that nobody can name the day it got bad. Beyond them, in South Florida buildings, the duct run is often long and shared, and a run that has come apart above the ceiling or a backdraught damper stuck shut will leave a healthy blower pushing against nothing at all.

• Filters first — they block slowly enough that nobody notices
• Then the duct: long shared runs are ordinary in buildings here
• A healthy fan pushing into a blocked run sounds completely normal

Microwave runs but does not heat

This is the one symptom on a microwave where we ask people to stop using the appliance until it has been seen. A machine that lights, turns and counts down while producing no heat has a problem on its high-voltage side, and that is not a part of an appliance to investigate with a screwdriver and a video: the capacitor in it can hold a lethal charge long after the plug is out. It is a routine repair for somebody equipped for it. There is no code to read — this make's microwaves display a single generic word and nothing more specific.

• Stop using it. The high-voltage side is not a do-it-yourself repair
• There is no code table for this appliance in either era — just the word ERROR
• Built-in and drawer machines are worth repairing; a countertop one usually is not

Microwave drawer will not open

A drawer microwave is a motorized mechanism as well as an oven, and the mechanism is what usually fails. A drawer that stops partway, will not open, or opens and immediately closes is a drive, a rail or an obstruction — and while that is unresolved the oven will refuse to heat, because the interlock chain is not satisfied. That refusal reads as a dead appliance and is in fact the machine being careful. It is a mechanical repair, it is common, and it very rarely means the microwave itself is finished.

• The mechanism fails far more often than the oven does
• A drawer that will not close leaves an oven that will not run — by design
• Mechanical repair, ordinary parts, and not the end of the appliance

Oven bakes unevenly or at the wrong temperature

An oven can be thirty degrees out and pass every self-test it is capable of, because it believes its own sensor. That is why this complaint is diagnosed with an independent probe and a logged preheat rather than by opinion or by an oven thermometer left on a shelf. On this make there is a second question first: which era the appliance is from. An older cavity may report a sensor problem through a code table that no longer exists on the current machines, and a newer one reports something else entirely.

• An oven thirty degrees out passes its own self-test
• Probe at rack height and a logged preheat — not a thermometer on a shelf
• Sitting steadily wrong and swinging widely are different problems

Burner clicks but will not light

In this climate the two ordinary causes are salt air on the igniter and a cap that went back slightly wrong after a clean — which is why so many of these calls date from the week the hob was scrubbed. The professional burners on the rangetops complicate it pleasantly: they are built to relight themselves after a draft or a boil-over, so a burner that keeps going out may be that system rather than the burner. Neither is a code problem; the rangetops have no display to show one on.

• Most of these begin the week the hob was deep-cleaned
• Salt air and humidity are what actually kill igniters here
• One burner or all of them is the question that splits the diagnosis

Induction zone cuts out during cooking

The most misread problem on an induction surface, because it looks like a zone dying and is usually a zone defending itself. The drive electronics under the glass shed a great deal of heat, and they rely on airflow through the cabinet beneath. Pack that space, add insulation during a renovation, or store a stack of trays against the underside, and the cooktop will run beautifully for five minutes at high power and then step back. Establishing that before anybody quotes for parts is the whole of this page.

• Cutting out after minutes at high power is usually protection, not failure
• The cause is under the worktop far more often than in the appliance
• Pan compatibility is a magnet test, and no repair changes it

Glassware coming out cloudy

Cloudy glass is two quite different problems wearing the same appearance. One is deposit — hard-water scale sitting on the surface, which comes off with an acid rinse and comes back unless the water is treated. The other is etching, which is permanent damage to the glass itself and cannot be reversed by anything. Telling them apart takes a few minutes at the sink and decides whether this is a repair, a maintenance visit or a conversation about the glassware. This make helps: the dishwasher has a softener built into it.

• Deposit washes off. Etching does not — and the test takes five minutes
• This machine has its own water softener, and it is the usual answer
• A slow, even decline across everything points at the softener rather than a part

Dishes coming out wet

Half of these calls are answered by an explanation rather than a repair, and we would rather give it than take the visit. These machines dry without an element roasting the load: they use residual heat and a door that releases itself at the end of the cycle. That leaves plastics damp and glass dry, and it is the design rather than a defect. What is a genuine problem is water still standing on upturned crockery, warm cloudy glass, or a door that never opens at the end.

• Damp plastics beside dry glass is the design, not a problem
• The door opening itself at the end of the cycle is AutoRelease working
• Pooled water on upturned items is the symptom that is real

Coffee has gone bitter and weak

Bitter and weak together is the classic complaint on a built-in coffee system, and it is almost never the beans or the settings. Burrs wear, the grind drifts coarse, and coarse grind under-extracts — which tastes weak. Meanwhile scale and old coffee oils in the brew group add the bitterness. Two causes, one symptom, and both are maintenance rather than failure. This appliance writes sentences rather than codes, so it will often have been asking for a clean for some time before anybody calls.

• Bitter and weak together is grind and group, not beans or settings
• The machine has probably been asking for a clean — read what the display says
• Discontinued platform: the parts answer comes before the labor

The app will not connect to the appliance

Worth a page of its own because it is the complaint most likely to be sold as an appliance repair when it is nothing of the sort. The current generation reports to an app, and when the link works it genuinely shortens a diagnosis — a caller who can read what the app says saves the first part of a visit. When it does not work, the appliance is almost always fine, and the problem belongs to a router, a network band or an account. We will say so, and we will not charge repair money for it.

• An appliance off the network is not a broken appliance
• Most of these are the 2.4 GHz band, the router or the account — not the machine
• Only the 2016-and-later machines connect at all

Refrigeration making a new noise

Refrigeration is never silent, and the useful question is not whether it makes a noise but whether the noise is new. Built-in cabinets are quieter than freestanding ones, which means a change is noticed sooner and worries people more. Most new noises come from one of four places — the evaporator fan, the condenser fan, the compressor mounts, or something touching the cabinet — and three of those four are cheap. What matters is catching a fan before ice or a dry bearing takes the cooling with it.

• A new noise is worth a call; a familiar one usually is not
• Noise that stops when the door opens is the evaporator fan
• Panel-ready cabinets amplify contact noise through the joinery

Frost building up inside the freezer column

Frost inside a frost-free cabinet means moisture is getting in, or the defrost cycle is no longer clearing what condenses. Both are ordinary, and which one it is can usually be told by where the ice forms: around the door and at the top means air is leaking in, while ice at the back wall and under the drawers means the defrost is not finishing. In a column the ice starts low and surfaces late, so by the time it is visible it has been building for weeks.

• Where the ice forms tells you which problem it is
• Around the door is air getting in; at the back wall is defrost
• In a column the build-up starts low and shows late

Door alarm chiming with the door shut

One of the four named alarms these cabinets have — there is no code behind it, just the chime and the app saying Door Open. When it sounds with the door visibly closed, the appliance is not confused: either the door is genuinely not sealing home, or the switch that reports its position has failed. The first is far more likely and often free to correct, and on a panel-ready door it is usually a hinge that has settled under the weight of a cabinet front.

• No code behind it — Door Open is one of only four named alarms on these cabinets
• A door that looks closed can still be a few millimeters off the seal
• Panel weight settles hinges, and the switch is the last suspect

Hood lights not working

The smallest hood problem and the most common call. LED modules in these hoods fail one at a time, so a single dark lamp is a module or its driver rather than a hood at the end of its life. A whole strip dark points at the driver or the supply instead. There is no code to read — the maker's own manual troubleshoots hood lighting in plain English, because the control panel has no display. A photograph of the hood from below usually decides what goes on the van.

• One dark lamp is a module; all dark is the driver or the supply
• Dimming before failure points at the driver, not the lamps
• A photo from below is usually enough to bring the right part

Hood switching itself on

Alarming the first time and usually correct behavior. These hoods have an automatic overheat response: when the temperature under the canopy climbs past a threshold — a heavy sear, a long roast, a burner left high — the hood starts itself to protect the appliance and the cabinetry above it. That is the design working. What is a genuine problem is a hood that starts with a cold range, or one that starts and will not stop, and those point at the sensor or the control rather than at the kitchen.

• Starting during heavy cooking is the overheat protection, by design
• Starting with a cold range is a sensor or a control problem
• A hood that will not switch off is worth a call rather than a breaker

Sparking inside the microwave

Stop the cycle and stop using the appliance. Sparking inside a microwave has a small number of causes and one of them — a damaged waveguide cover — will get worse quickly and can damage the magnetron, which is the expensive part. The others are usually harmless once found: metal in the cavity, a rack touching a wall, or food debris carbonized onto the cover. There is no code for this and no code table exists for these microwaves at all, so what the owner saw is the whole of the evidence.

• Stop the cycle and stop using it until it has been looked at
• A damaged waveguide cover gets worse fast and takes the magnetron with it
• Metal, a touching rack, or carbonized debris are the harmless causes

Burner will not stay at a simmer

Losing the bottom of a burner's range is a specific and satisfying problem, because the cause is usually visible and the fix lasts. These are sealed brass burners built to run from a hard sear down to a genuine simmer, and when the low end goes it is nearly always a partly blocked port, a cap seated a fraction wrong after cleaning, or the simmer valve itself. It is also the clearest example of a problem that arrives the week the hob was scrubbed and gets blamed on the appliance.

• Losing the low end is usually ports or a cap, not the burner
• It very often dates from the week the hob was deep-cleaned
• The pro brass burners are built to simmer — this is a problem, not a limitation

Oven error code F2

Dacor oven error code F2: The cavity went hotter than the control was asking for, and the control shut it down. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F3

Dacor oven error code F3: The sensor's resistance has fallen outside the band the control accepts, which the control reads as a short. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F4

Dacor oven error code F4: The mirror of F3: instead of too little resistance the control sees none at all, which means the circuit is broken somewhere between it and the probe. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F5

Dacor oven error code F5: This one names the board directly, and it is one of the few codes on this platform where the answer really is the control. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F6

Dacor oven error code F6: The board keeps its calibration and configuration in memory, and that memory has failed its checksum. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F7

Dacor oven error code F7: The control has been told the door is locked when it should not be, or cannot confirm the state of the lock while the cavity is hot. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code F8

Dacor oven error code F8: The lock motor turned and nothing told the control that the latch had actually moved. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F1

Dacor range error code F1: The broadest entry in the ER-series table, and it means the control found something wrong inside itself rather than out in the appliance. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F2

Dacor range error code F2: Two boards that have to talk to each other have stopped, and on this platform the cable between them is a more common cause than either board. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F3

Dacor range error code F3: The counterpart to F1: something the control depends on is not behaving, and the problem is out in the appliance rather than in the board. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F9

Dacor range error code F9: The range cannot confirm the state of its own door latch. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F10

Dacor range error code F10: One code covering two quite different findings, which is unusual and useful: the manual is telling you that a welded relay and a loose sensor lead produce the same picture from the control's point of view. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F11

Dacor range error code F11: One button reads as permanently pressed. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F13

Dacor range error code F13: The panel itself has failed rather than the relay board or the wiring between them. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F14

Dacor range error code F14: The board that switches the loads has failed. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F15

Dacor range error code F15: The table lists this alongside F14 as a second power-board failure mode, and in practice the two are diagnosed and repaired the same way. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F20

Dacor range error code F20: The best code in this table, because it names a cable rather than a board. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F30/F31

Dacor range error code F30/F31: The pair of sensor problems: one for a circuit that reads short, one for a circuit that reads open. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F32

Dacor range error code F32: A close relative of F20 with the membrane added as a second suspect, and the order of investigation is the same: cable first, because it is cheap, reachable and the likelier of the two. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F90

Dacor range error code F90: The latch conversation has broken down, and the manual is explicit that the wiring is as likely as the assembly. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Range error code F95

Dacor range error code F95: The third of the power-board entries in this table and the highest number in it. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-d0

Dacor oven error code C-d0: The panel has decided that a key is being held, and it will not act on anything else until it stops. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-d1

Dacor oven error code C-d1: The latch is not where the control expects it to be. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-F0

Dacor oven error code C-F0: Two boards inside the appliance have stopped talking. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-F2

Dacor oven error code C-F2: The panel you press and the board that acts are no longer in contact. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-20

Dacor oven error code C-20: The cavity's temperature probe has left the range the control accepts, and the control has stopped rather than continue heating blind. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-21

Dacor oven error code C-21: The cavity has gone hotter than it should and the control has intervened. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-23

Dacor oven error code C-23: This is the meat probe rather than the cavity sensor — the accessory probe that plugs into the socket inside the oven — and that distinction saves people a great deal of money. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-30

Dacor oven error code C-30: The control monitors its own temperature as well as the cavity's, and that monitoring has failed. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-31

Dacor oven error code C-31: The electronics behind the panel are running hotter than they should, and the control has said so. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-70/C-72

Dacor oven error code C-70/C-72: These belong to the steam cavities and they do not exist on the plain ovens, which is itself a useful piece of information: an owner who has never filled a reservoir is looking at the wrong table. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Oven error code C-A2

Dacor oven error code C-A2: The fan that keeps the electronics and the cabinetry cool is not doing its job, and on a built-in appliance that is not a minor complaint: the fan is what protects the joinery around a wall oven as much as the board behind its panel. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code C0

Dacor cooktop error code C0: The sensor under the glass that watches surface temperature has gone out of circuit. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code C1

Dacor cooktop error code C1: The mirror of C0: instead of no reading the control sees an impossible one. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code C2

Dacor cooktop error code C2: The IGBT is the switching device that drives an induction coil, and the sensor watching its temperature has gone out of circuit. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code F0

Dacor cooktop error code F0: The two boards inside the cooktop have stopped talking, and the connection between them is checked before either is replaced. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code F1

Dacor cooktop error code F1: The board cannot reach the memory that holds its configuration. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code F2

Dacor cooktop error code F2: The chip that reads the touch surface is not answering. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code A2

Dacor cooktop error code A2: The cooling fan under the surface is not running as it should, and on an induction cooktop that matters more than it sounds: the drive electronics shed a great deal of heat and depend on that airflow. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code UP

Dacor cooktop error code UP: The cooktop is reporting on the supply rather than on itself, and that makes it the one code in this table where the appliance may be entirely healthy. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Cooktop error code d0

Dacor cooktop error code d0: The gentlest code on the cooktop and almost always a wiped surface or a pan lid resting on the controls. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-1

Dacor dishwasher error code F-1: These machines confirm a fill by looking for conductivity through the water-presence sensor, and this code says the check failed. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-2

Dacor dishwasher error code F-2: The control asked for the wash pump and the board did not confirm that it had been switched on. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-3

Dacor dishwasher error code F-3: The machine heated for as long as it should have and the water did not get warmer. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-4

Dacor dishwasher error code F-4: The machine tried to empty and the sensor still found water. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-5

Dacor dishwasher error code F-5: The fan that moves air for drying is not doing what the control expects. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-6

Dacor dishwasher error code F-6: The machine believes water is where it should not be and has stopped itself. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-7

Dacor dishwasher error code F-7: The control's stored configuration no longer verifies. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-8

Dacor dishwasher error code F-8: The two boards have stopped talking, and on this platform the service manual is unusually specific about why: the four-wire harness that runs from the door into the base takes the flexing of every door movement and the moisture of every cycle, and a wet or corroded connector in it is the common cause. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code F-9

Dacor dishwasher error code F-9: This sensor is the machine's eyes: it decides whether water arrived, how dirty it is and how warm. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code LC

Dacor dishwasher error code LC: The current platform's equivalent of the older F-6, and it is treated with the same respect. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code 4C

Dacor dishwasher error code 4C: The machine asked for water and did not get enough of it. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code 5C

Dacor dishwasher error code 5C: Water is still where it should not be at the end of the drain phase. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code HC

Dacor dishwasher error code HC: The machine's heating did not behave as expected during a high-temperature phase. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code 3C

Dacor dishwasher error code 3C: The wash pump is not running as the control expects. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher error code PC

Dacor dishwasher error code PC: The zone-wash feature — the one that concentrates pressure on a chosen part of the rack — did not perform as expected. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

Dishwasher signal AP

Dacor dishwasher — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. The machine is waiting to be paired with a phone, and it is showing that because somebody held a button for long enough to ask it to.

Coffee machine signal Machine Ready – Drawer Out

Dacor coffee machine — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. The most common message on this machine and never a problem.